The Eastern Townships are characterized by rolling hills and villages dotted with gourmet restaurants, charming bed and breakfasts, lovely cafés, art galleries and boutiques. With its picturesque vineyards, lakes and forests, the region is a perfect getaway to enjoy the best of nature. Come in autumn to watch the leaves change or in winter to hit the slopes at one of the local ski resorts. In the spring, visitors can enjoy a variety of activities, including cycling on one of the region’s many cycle paths. Summer is popular with families looking for fun in the sun on one of the many lakes. In this article, I would like to share with you my most recent trip to the region, earlier this spring, which was all about food and relaxation. Follow me on this agrotourism journey in the Eastern Townships!
This article was created in collaboration with Bonjour Québec and Tourisme Cantons de l’Est as part of my role as a Bonjour Québec ambassador
First day in the Eastern Townships
On a Monday morning at the end of March, I jumped into my car with my suitcases and all my photo equipment. On Highway 10 towards Magog, the misty mountains and hills of the townships gently surround me at every turn. Through the falling snow, I head for my first gourmet stop: La Shop in Magog. Housed in an old industrial building on the banks of the Magog River, this café-bar is open from morning to mid-afternoon to satisfy all your daily cravings. Early birds and brunch lovers will have access to the breakfast menu until 11:00 am every day. The rest of the time, you will find a wide selection grilled cheese sandwiches. I fell for the smørrebrød — an open-faced sandwich on toasted dark bread with avocado, goat cheese, cherry tomatoes, maple smoked salmon, poached egg and dill with potatoes. Don’t forget the extra bacon, it was a really nice addition to the rest of my meal.
Before hitting the road for my next stop, I decided to explore Magog a bit more and discovered the superb Parc de la Pointe-Merry. This walk in the park will allow you to observe the beauty of Magog Bay as well as the northern part of Lake Memphremagog.
After an urban incursion in Magog, we travel to the village of Waterville. Halfway between North Hatley and Sherbooke, you will find the Domaine de Courval. There, you will meet Lucy and Gregory, the charming couple behind the cheese factory. You will also have the opportunity to taste their various organic products, created mainly with their goat’s milk. I instantly fell in love with their fresh goat cheese with habanero pepper and maple syrup. Don’t forget to say hello to the lovely goats before heading back to the road.
Pleased with this encounter and tasting, I continued on my way to Compton to stop at the Érablière du Village. This “urban” sugar shack obviously offers the famous cabane à sucre experience, but it’s to do some shopping that I stopped there on the way. Indeed, they offer a multitude of maple products and other local products. I highly recommend you pick up their ketchup and mustard to bring a bit of the Eastern Townships home.
Just before heading back to your accommodation for the evening, if you want to enjoy the area a little more, I recommend a hike in the Parc de la Gorge de Coaticook and then have a drink at the Hop Station microbrewery.
Now is the time to relax in a most unique environment — L’Auberge du changement d’ère. This accommodation, described as eco-futuristic by its creators Joël and Chloé, will give you a complete change of scene. At first glance, you see yurts on the grounds and you might think you’re in for some classic glamping, but think again! The interior of the yurt has been completely redesigned by the young couple of innkeepers-architects to offer an organic and playful architecture. You will of course find all the conveniences of modern life. Let yourself be transported to another world, for a night of dreaming.
During my stay, I had the opportunity to try out their brand new package exclusive to the OutGo platform « Nuitée en yourte incroyable & Fondue au fromage comptonaise ». In addition to access to the yurt and the various amenities on site at the inn, you’ll be treated to a cheese fondue packed lunch, complete with appetizer, sides, fondue dish and accessories.
For travellers with limited mobility, this accomodation requires bending, climbing and other motor tasks considered more difficult. Access to the yurt from the parking lot can also be a challenge for some people. This is something to consider when planning your trip.
Day 2 in the Eastern Townships
My night’s rest in the yurt was very relaxing and gave me all the energy I needed to start my second day in the Eastern Townships. For this second part of my itinerary in the region, we head towards Sherbrooke. We start the day with a scrumptious breakfast at Café Aragon. This real institution in the Mont-Bellevue district of Sherbrooke is loved and visited by the locals — that’s always a good sign when you arrive in a restaurant that’s almost full on a weekday morning.
The menu is very mouth-watering and features many fresh, local ingredients. I opted for the Chaman Egg Benedict, a dish featuring organic goat cheese from Domaine de Courval, which I visited on the first day of this itinerary. Their cheese went very well with the hollandaise sauce and maple syrup.
After a great brunch at Café Aragon, it’s time to move closer to downtown Sherbrooke. Commonly referred to as “the Centro” by locals, there are many shops, cafes and heritage buildings. As this area is rather dense, you will easily cover the entire area in an afternoon at most, counting stops. Add a little urban art to your walk with the Circuit des Murales, a real open-air museum — and it’s totally free.
Some essential stops for your visit to downtown Sherbrooke
- Art & Manufacture to discover the art of internationally renowned local ceramist Edith Bourgault. You can shop her various pieces directly on site or if you prefer to order online, check out her Etsy shop or the popular Food52 website.
- Have a coffee at Le Kaapeh, a friendly neighbourhood café serving coffee from various Canadian roasters.
- Boutique Joséphine
- Librairie des Appalaches
To start off the evening in style, head to La Buvette du Centro for your apéro. Located on the second floor of a building on Wellington Street, in the heart of the Centro, this place has everything to please. At first glance, you are immersed in a plant-based and boho-chic universe. Cocktail lovers will be delighted by the vast selection of spirits available on the premises. Personally, I fell for their Amaretto Sour, which went perfectly with my cauliflower wings. It’s the perfect place to grab a bite and a drink with friends.
For dinner, we head to the Westley – Artisans Restaurateurs. This restaurant, located on King Street West, offers refined cuisine with simplicity. Using local and seasonal ingredients and unparalleled expertise, Westley offers a menu that is out of the ordinary. The dishes are easy to share and there really is something for everyone — there’s even an entire vegetable section for vegetarians. My favourite of the evening was the hamachi crudo with homemade dashi, diced celery, candied and caramelised blood oranges.
C’est bientôt la fin de la journée et ça tombe bien, puisque l’hôtel que je vous propose pour la nuit est juste en face du restaurant Westley. Une bonne nuit de repos chez OTL Sherbrooke, une chaîne d’hôtel où j’avais eu l’occasion de séjourner lors d’une escapade au Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean. Leurs lits douillets sont très appréciés après une longue journée à explorer les Cantons de l’Est.
It’s almost the end of the day and it’s a good thing, because the hotel I’m suggesting for the night is right across from the Westley restaurant. A good night’s rest at OTL Sherbrooke, a hotel chain where I had the opportunity to stay during a trip to Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean. Their cozy beds are much appreciated after a long day exploring the Eastern Townships.
Third day in the Eastern Townships
It’s already our last day in the Eastern Townships, but all the addresses on the schedule today are worth the trip before returning home.
To begin with, let’s take a look at Café Soko. Located in the heart of the Quartier Alexandre, an area of the city centre that is in full revival, Café Soko has several vocations. First of all, it’s a café open from very early to late. It is also a coworking space, which can be booked in advance on their website. Right above Soko, you’ll also find the ALEX living space, home of live.learn. On the menu, I highly recommend you try the Shaken Espresso with cinnamon and one of their scones from the company Le monde est scone (the same people behind La brume dans mes lunettes in Montreal)
If the weather is good, take the opportunity to walk through the surrounding streets, where there are some very fine examples of English architecture, still very well preserved.
Before leaving the neighbourhood for your next destination, if you have a sweet tooth, you must visit Ça beigne, a donut shop located on Alexandre Street. Try their tiramisu-style donut pudding, it’s completely decadent and just sweet enough.
For lunch, we go to at Louis’ Luncheonnette. The reputation of this snack bar is well established. The locals all agree that it is one of the best poutines in town. I decided to go and try it out and the rumours are true! The fries are crispy and hot, there is just enough cheese and the gravy is poured on at the very last moment — a perfect poutine, by my standards.
Our last stop, and not the least, was Géogène Micro-torréfacteur, a local coffee roaster. For the past few years, Géogène has been making a name for itself on the Quebec coffee scene, and I was finally able to visit their headquarters located in Sherbrooke. While there, I took the opportunity to taste one of their signature beverages: the cold brew lemonade, a refreshing drink made from their homemade cold brew, sweetened just right with maple syrup and finished with a sparkling lemonade. Before leaving, I took the opportunity to get some coffee beans roasted on site and I really appreciated their attention to detail such as their fully compostable packaging, which is very rare in the world of specialty coffee.
It is already the end of this adventure in the Eastern Townships…
I hope to have introduced you to new places and made you want to explore the Eastern Townships in the near future.
Continue the discovery and enjoyment in other nearby regions
This article was created in collaboration with Bonjour Québec and Tourisme Cantons de l’Est as part of my role as a Bonjour Québec ambassador
